We talk to John Francomb, Creative Director, about how he started out in shirtmaking and the things that he is passionate about.

What was your first job in design?
I worked for a very small CMT (cut, make & trim) sub-contractor for a fashion house. We made garments for Burtons, Topman etc and there were only 3 people in the company so it was fantastic place to train as it meant that I got to do everything from cutting patterns and making the samples, to teaching the machinists, pressing and finishing the garments and even driving them in the van to London.

Where do you get inspiration from for designs?
I don’t read fashion magazines! I get my inspiration simply from watching people on the streets in London. London is the best city for doing that, more than any other capital city. Milan is very dandy and stylish, Paris is very chic, but London is so eclectic and diverse that it’s full of inspiration.

What are the most popular selling colours/styles at T.M.Lewin?
Fashion goes in circles but it always comes back to the basics. There are trends that come and go every year but our classic colours and designs are the ones that are the backbone of our business and will always be popular.

What’s the best part of your job?
I love it all. I love choosing and designing the product, seeing the actual finished results and then seeing people on the tube or on TV wearing it.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to get into shirt design?
Find out as much as you can about it, work in different companies and ask lots of questions.

Apart from TML what other designer/retailer do you admire the most?
I’m a bit anti fashion designers in the same way that I’m anti fashion magazines. I prefer style icons like Savile Row tailors that work with fantastic fabrics and create garments that are expertly cut and finished, garments that take skill to make. I hate throw-away fashion and frivolous design that is just for show. It’s the same with design overall, my style icon is Norman Foster the architect as he creates buildings that are lasting, timeless and functional, not frivolous.

What do you enjoy doing when you’re not working?
I love music! It helps me to unwind by listening to it at home or going to concerts or even having a go at playing piano at home which I’m trying to learn again. I love having lunch with friends too.

What would you be if you weren’t Creative Director?
I love to be a cocktail pianist, or something involved in the theatre as I trained as an actor when I was younger.

What is your proudest achievement?
Setting up my factory was definitely my biggest achievement. It took 5 years to bring it all together and there were some really tough times along the way when I didn’t know where the next pay checks were coming from. I never thought it was possible but I did it and I’m very proud to have made it happen.

What’s your worst ever fashion mistake?
Hmmm… I’m not sure I can admit to that! I think it was the wide leg Oxford bags (trousers) in brown tartan check that I wore with platform shoes. I remember my mother telling me that she would not let me go out looking like that! I think the afro perm hairdo I had was possibly an equally bad fashion mistake.

What was the last fashion item you purchased?
A Belstaff jacket to wear when I’m on my Vespa – it’s a design classic, like the one Che Guevara wore.

What are your favourite 3 items from the current T.M.Lewin collection?
They’re all my favourites! I still have a pair of classic silver barrel cufflinks with mother of pearl edges that I bought over 10 years ago that are my favourites – they’re solid and tactile and work with everything.