Christopher Smith, Garment Technologist
How did you get started in Garment Technology?
By chance really – my parents wanted me to work in a bank but I was determined to do something creative, so I studied photography & media at college. Whilst studying, I saw an advert in the paper for an apprentice at a small, local tailoring company which I thought sounded interesting, so I took the job and was taught the ins and outs of suit making by the owner, who took me under his wing, nurturing me to become a tailor for the two and a half years I was there.
Following the apprenticeship, I took a job that was the start of my current career, at the T.M.Lewin factory then based in Southend. Wayne Carter (now T.M.Lewin Head of Men’s Technical) and John Francomb (Creative Director) were running the factory of 150 female shirt makers, (I have vivid memories of my first day of introductions!) from whom I learnt in detail about the shirt making process and their individual involvement in that process. Both Wayne and John inspired and encouraged me to study Fashion Design at college in the evenings whilst working, and T.M.Lewin covered the cost of my studies. Unfortunately, once I completed the course there wasn’t a design position for me within the company, so I made the decision to continue studying fashion design full time. ![]()
In 2000, I went to work for an up and coming womenswear designer called Tristan Webber, which got me involved in the exciting, fast paced but poorly paid fashion industry, showcasing Tristan’s designs and my creations at London Fashion Week and producing garments that were featured in Vogue. I learnt a lot about the cut-throat fashion world from my time working closely with such a small but highly respected design team.
I received a lucky break a year or so down the line through a friend in the industry, offering me the opportunity to work as Design Assistant for a company supplying high street chains including Topshop. Following a short stint there, I then moved along with the chief Designer to work on supplying M&S and designing myself for womenswear. It was whilst I was working for them, on my 25th birthday, that I received a phone call from Wayne Carter asking if I would finally like to return to T.M.Lewin, taking the position as Garment Technologist working closely alongside him, which I have done so now for the last 5 years!
What does a typical day at T.M.Lewin consist of for you?
There isn’t a typical day in my job – it varies from developing concepts for a brand new shirt style, to putting shirts into production, visiting the factories, and checking all of our high quality standards are being met. Every day is different.
Where do you get inspiration from?
I do a lot of competitor shopping and keep up to date with current trends and what current designers are taking influence from on WGSN. I go to trade shows and look at The Sartorialist website which is great for keeping abreast of what’s genuinely out there on the street of fashion forward cities. It’s interesting to see what is ‘on trend’ isn’t necessarily what general public are wearing on the street. Not everyone can put the latest trends together well but it’s about little touches that make your work outfit more stylish and you more confident in wearing it - it’s rare now for men to appreciate that, so it’s refreshing when you come across a dapper gentleman, most often in European cities.
What’s the best part of your job?
Seeing something through all the way from concept to the finished product that goes into the stores to be sold.
Apart from T.M.Lewin, what other designer/retailer do you admire the most?
I love Reiss for their design but the quality isn’t very good. Uniqlo is great for cheap essential basics like jeans. I also love a great little hat place called The Classic Cap Company in Hamlet Court Road, Essex. What the owner there doesn’t know about hats, isn’t worth knowing!
What do you do when you’re not working?
I love photography, especially band and music photography, check out some of my pictures by clicking on this link. I like to DJ at parties too and cook when I have time.
What would you be if you weren’t a garment technologist?
A photographer – Dean Chalkley is a band photographer I really admire and he’s from Essex - a man after my own heart!
What is your proudest achievement?
Buying my flat – I wanted to buy one before I was 30 and I did, just!
What’s your worst ever fashion mistake?
My curtains hairstyle! And my trainers - my Mum couldn’t afford decent trainers so I remember wearing nasty plastic Gola trainers which were very uncool at the time and I got a fair deal of abuse for them.
What was the last fashion item you purchased?
A Jack of Diamonds Pork Pie hat from The Classic Cap Company.